How to Unclog a Drain: What to Try First, Second, Third
Most clogs are hair and soap a foot or two down. What to try first, second and third before you pay a plumber.
Work in order: pull out what you can reach, plunge with the right plunger, then use a zip tool or snake, and only then open the pipe under the sink. Most clogs in a sink, tub or shower are hair, soap and gunk within a foot or two of the drain, and a plunger plus a cheap zip tool usually clears them. Chemicals come last, if at all.
Quick version
- First, check whether one drain is clogged or several. Several means call a plumber.
- Pull the stopper or cover and remove what you can see. Pull up, don’t push down.
- Use a flat cup plunger on sinks and tubs, a flange plunger on toilets, and block the overflow hole.
- Next: zip tool for hair, hand snake for deeper clogs, closet auger for toilets.
- Skip boiling water on plastic pipes and toilets, and treat chemical cleaners as a last resort.
Before you start: one drain or several?
Run water in the other sinks, flush a toilet, and run the tub. If only one fixture is slow, the clog is local, between that drain and the wall. That’s a DIY job.
If two or more drains back up together, especially on different floors, or water rises in the tub when you flush, the blockage is probably in the main line. A plunger won’t reach it. Call a plumber.
How to unclog a drain, in order of escalation
- Clear the opening. Lift out the sink’s pop-up stopper (some twist a quarter turn first), lift the kitchen strainer, or unscrew the shower drain cover. Pull out the hair clump with your fingers, needle-nose pliers or a bent wire. Pull up and out; pushing just packs the clog tighter. Run water to test.
- Try very hot tap water, not boiling. For a slow bathroom drain, a few pots of hot water can soften soap scum. Boiling water can warp PVC pipe and plastic fittings, and it can crack a toilet bowl. If you don’t know what your pipes are made of, stick to hot tap water.
- Plunge with the right plunger. Use a flat cup plunger on sinks, tubs and showers and a flange (or beehive) plunger on toilets. Leave a few inches of water in the basin so the plunger pushes water, not air. Stuff a wet rag into the overflow hole on a sink or cover the tub’s overflow plate, and plug the second side of a double kitchen sink. Pump hard for 20 to 30 seconds, then pull the plunger off sharply. Repeat a few times.
- Use a zip tool for hair. Push the barbed strip down the bathroom sink or tub drain as far as it goes, then pull it out slowly. Expect something gross.
- Run a hand snake. Feed the cable into the drain, turning the handle clockwise. When you hit resistance, keep turning to break up or hook the clog, then pull back slowly and flush with hot water. Never put a regular snake in a toilet; use a closet auger, which has a sleeve that protects the porcelain.
- Take apart the P-trap (sinks only). If the sink is full, scoop out as much water as you can. Put a bucket underneath, loosen the slip nuts slowly so the trap drains, then remove it and clean it out. While it’s off, look down the pipe toward the wall. Reassemble hand-tight and run water to check for drips.
- Call a plumber if the snake can’t get through, the clog comes back within weeks, or you’re dealing with an older house where pipes may be fragile.
Chemical cleaners: enzyme vs. caustic
Enzyme cleaners use bacteria and enzymes to eat organic gunk. They’re slow and gentle on pipes, so they’re better for monthly maintenance than for a full clog.
Caustic and acid cleaners (sodium or potassium hydroxide, sulfuric or hydrochloric acid) work faster and carry real risk. If you use one:
- Wear goggles and rubber gloves, and open a window or run the fan.
- Pour slowly and close to the drain. Too much product in a fully blocked drain can splash back.
- Never mix two products, and never pour one right after another.
- Don’t plunge or snake a drain with chemical cleaner sitting in it. If you already poured some and it didn’t work, tell whoever comes to fix it.
- If someone swallows it, gets it on their skin or breathes the fumes, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.
Fixture-by-fixture chooser
| Fixture | First try | Second try | Third try | Call a pro if |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bathroom sink | Pull and clean the pop-up stopper; zip tool | Cup plunger with the overflow blocked | Remove the P-trap or run a hand snake | Clog sits past the wall pipe |
| Kitchen sink | Scoop out water; turn off and unplug the disposal, then check the strainer | Cup plunger with the other side plugged | Remove the P-trap, then snake toward the wall | Both sides and the dishwasher back up |
| Tub or shower | Remove the drain cover; pull hair; zip tool | Cup plunger with the overflow covered | Hand snake through the drain or overflow | Water rises here when you flush |
| Toilet | Flange plunger: seal, then gentle push and a firm pull back | Closet auger | Stop and call | Several fixtures back up, or it clogs repeatedly |
What the pros say
- Roger Wakefield, a Texas master plumber, says to scoop standing water out of a clogged kitchen sink before you open anything, then crack the slip nut over a bucket and let it drain slowly so you don’t soak the cabinet and buckle the wood; he also notes the dishwasher usually drains through the disposal, so a clog past that point can back up both. In a side-by-side test of drain cleaners, his team found chemicals hit or miss on grease-heavy clogs and pointed to a mechanical snake or a plumber as the safer path.
- Richard Trethewey, the plumbing and heating expert at This Old House, seats the plunger in a toilet, pushes gently to seal, then pulls back to draw the clog up and break it apart, since shoving can compress it, and uses a closet auger on toilets because a bare wire scratches the china. On a bathroom sink, he blocks the overflow so the force goes down the drain instead of back at you.
- Joseph Wood, owner of Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating, tells This Old House readers to fill the sink with water, stuff a wet rag in the overflow, and plunge hard. If that fails, he unscrews the nut at the back of the drain pipe, pulls out the pivot rod and lifts the stopper, because hair and soap ball up at its base.
- Tammy Zhao, PharmD, a pharmacist and poison information specialist writing for Poison Control, explains that non-enzyme drain cleaners contain strong acids or alkalis that can burn skin and cause serious injury if swallowed. She advises goggles, rubber gloves and careful pouring, and notes that baking soda and vinegar rarely build enough pressure to clear a drain.
Gear that helps
We may earn a commission if you buy through these links. It never decides what we recommend. How we pick.
Zip-it Hair Clog Remover (25-inch)
A barbed plastic strip that hooks hair out of bathroom sinks and tubs. Family Handyman calls this style of tool a cheap way to skip a service call; it does nothing for grease or a toilet.
View on Amazon (Zip-it Hair Clog Remover (25-inch), opens in a new tab)Korky 94-4A Beehive Mini Sink and Drain Plunger (2-pack)
Small plungers sized for sinks, tubs and showers. Keep them separate from the toilet plunger, for obvious reasons.
View on Amazon (Korky 94-4A Beehive Mini Sink and Drain Plunger (2-pack), opens in a new tab)Korky 93WH-4 Toilet Plunger
A beehive-shaped toilet plunger with a T-handle, made to seal in the toilet's drain opening where a flat cup plunger can't.
View on Amazon (Korky 93WH-4 Toilet Plunger, opens in a new tab)RIDGID 59787 K-3 Toilet Auger
The toilet auger This Old House links from its drain video. A protective sleeve keeps the cable from scratching the porcelain, which a regular snake will do.
View on Amazon (RIDGID 59787 K-3 Toilet Auger, opens in a new tab)Cobra 00710 Skinny Snake Drain Cleaner
The hand snake This Old House links in the same video, for sink and tub clogs past the reach of a zip tool. Slow and gentle wins with these.
View on Amazon (Cobra 00710 Skinny Snake Drain Cleaner, opens in a new tab)
We researched these tools and cross-checked them against what the pros above use and link to; we did not test every one ourselves.
Do this this week
Who we drew on
- Roger WakefieldTexas master plumber, host of Roger Wakefield Plumbing Education · YouTube
- Richard TretheweyPlumbing and heating expert, This Old House · YouTube
- Joseph WoodOwner, Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating (quoted by This Old House) · publication
- Tammy Zhao, PharmD, CSPIPharmacist and certified specialist in poison information, Poison Control · website
Questions people ask
- Can I pour boiling water down a drain?
- Only if you know your pipes are metal, and never into a toilet. Boiling water can soften PVC pipe and fittings and can crack a porcelain bowl. Very hot tap water is the safer choice.
- Does baking soda and vinegar unclog drains?
- Not reliably. Poison Control explains that the fizz releases carbon dioxide, but drains aren't airtight, so the gas escapes before it builds enough pressure to push a clog.
- Are chemical drain cleaners bad for pipes?
- They can be. Strong acid or lye cleaners can damage older metal pipes and seals and burn skin and eyes. This Old House's Richard Trethewey says they usually open only a small hole in a full clog.
- When should I call a plumber for a clogged drain?
- When more than one fixture backs up at once, water comes up in the tub when you flush, a snake can't get past the blockage, or the same drain clogs again within weeks. Those usually point to a problem deeper in the line.
Sources
- How To Unclog a Bathroom Sink, This Old House
- What's in drain cleaner and what happens if you drink it?, Poison Control (National Capital Poison Center)
- Boiling Water and Clogged Drains: When It Helps and When It Hurts, HomeServe (YouTube) (2025-02)
- The TRUTH About Drain Cleaners: Which Ones Actually Work?, Roger Wakefield
- What is a Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool and Why Do You Need One?, Family Handyman (2023-06)
This guide is general information, not professional advice for your situation. Spot something out of date or wrong? Tell Eric Iverson and it gets fixed.